Taking a deep breath, I silently apologized to our compact rental car for the rough road ahead. Embarking on a road like this without a proper vehicle requires a combination of driving skill and luck. Offering gratitude for both, we ascended Old Coast Road. Located just off of California’s famous Pacific Coast Highway (PCH) 1, Old Coast Road offers a rugged 10 mile car hike through Big Sur’s coastal forest and backcountry.
Scrambling the Rustic Road
On our initial ascent, we angled with precision over deep ruts, boulders and loose gravel. An AWD vehicle with ground clearance would have been perfect, yet our ambitious little Chevy Spark expressed an unexpected joie de vivre for this rustic road. Together, we scrambled up the pitted hillside byway. Looking off to the left, we embraced a panoramic view of rolling hills and the vast Pacific Ocean.
Driving Down Into Coastal Forest
After clambering around the peak, we descended into the misty coastal forest. Shaggy brown roots poured from the earthy bank next to the road as a lush, vegetal aroma enveloped the car. Tree tops converged to form a natural pagoda over the road, providing both shade and sanctuary to birds, insects, mammals and reptiles living in the canopy and on the forest floor. Our rugged road transformed into a dirt trail just wide enough for one car with switchbacks winding sharply around tree trunks and natural terrain features.
Discovering Old Growth
As we crossed a narrow bridge hoisted over a bubbling stream, our surrounding coastal forest transitioned into old growth temperate rainforest. With this transition, youthful trees acquiesced to their elders as an impressive grove of large, mature trees emerged. Coarse mulch now covering the forest floor, magnificent redwood trees towered on either side of the road.
Also known as Sequoia sempervirens, these redwood trees may live for thousands of years (National Park Service, 2016). In 1847, Austrian botanist Stephan Endlicher penned the genus name Sequoia to honor a Cherokee man by the name of Sequoya who invented a system of writing (Online Etymology Dictionary, 2016). The species name, sempervirens, means evergreen or everlasting. They are the tallest trees in the world reaching heights of over 350 feet. Take it from me, few things will make you feel smaller than driving a tiny red car on a tiny dirt road flanked by S. sempervirens.
Ascending from the temperate rainforest, we wound our way up the mountainside. Our little Spark was huffing and puffing up the steep incline. We found a wayside pull off to let her cool down.
Making A Big Mistake
As I stepped out of the car, my bladder urgently acknowledged a nearby bush that would provide some semblance of privacy. Moments later, I made the quintessential mistake that no one ever makes twice. That bush? You guessed it. Poison oak. And, I peed right on it.
Ladies and gentleman, let me tell you this right now. If you are going to use the bathroom in the wild, do not let the urgency of nature’s call distract you from conducting a basic visual inspection. Poison oak plants produce an oily compound known as urushiol. When this compound comes into contact with your skin, your skin may erupt in an itchy, blistering rash known as contact dermatitis. If you’re lucky, your reaction stops there. If you’re like me, however, you may also find yourself in the throws of a systemic allergic reaction. When your skin comes into contact with urushiol, you should wash the affected area with soap and water using friction as soon as possible.
Let this be a cautionary tale, as I didn’t realize my own grave mistake until after I left the Old Coast Road. To be clear, you do NOT want poison oak anywhere near your precious parts!
Admiring the Bixby Bridge
Blissfully unaware of my own poison oak encounter, we resumed our journey toward our final major landmark. As we descended the peak and rounded the bend, there she was: Bixby Bridge. Prior to the opening of Bixby Bridge in 1932, those traveling between Carmel and Big Sur relied on the inland stagecoach trail now known as Old Coast Road (Wikipedia, 2016). Because no alternate routes existed at that time, those living in Big Sur were effectively cut off from the rest of society every time they experienced heavy rain.
Soaring high above the Bixby Creek Canyon along the craggy Pacific coast, Bixby Bridge now stands as one of the tallest single-span concrete bridges in the world. Structural engineering, at its finest, blends art and science to create great bridges that are not only structurally sound, but also enhance the beauty of the surrounding environment. With a gorgeous open-spandrel cement archway reflecting the contours of the canyon and large Medieval abutments extending down the canyon walls, Bixby Bridge dramatically illustrates the convergence of art and science into a masterpiece that brings together environment, form, function and aesthetics.
On this beautiful day in March, we relished the California sunshine as we admired every aspect of the bridge, the canyon and the rocky coastline. Now at a pull off near the entrance of Old Coast Road, we walked back to our Spark. Along the way, we noticed people pointing towards our dusty road expressing curiosity and wonder. For most, their curiosity ended abruptly as they turned left back on to PCH 1. One delightful young couple, however, turned right to make their way up the mountainside. We smiled at one another knowingly as we climbed back into the car. Moments later, we drove off toward our next adventure.
Learn More About Old Coast Road
To take on Old Coast Road yourself, I recommend that you first grab a sturdy vehicle with sufficient ground clearance. From there, head to PCH 1 in Big Sur. One entrance can be found on the North end of Andrew Molera State Park, and the other near Bixby Landing. Turn on to Old Coast Road, grab your camera and enjoy the adventure!
