As I parted the gauzy mosquito net surrounding my bed, I was greeted by a knock at the door and a fresh pot of Maraba coffee. Now in the Land of a Thousand Hills, I felt the cool rustic banda floor under my feet.
With a mug of warm coffee in hand, my eyes met with a shimmering view of Lake Bulera reflecting the orange and pink hues of the early morning sky. Before breakfast, I assembled my hiking gear. Daypack? Check. Gorilla trekking permit? Check. Camera? Check. Check.
With a deep breath, I ascended a winding stone pathway to the lodge perched high atop a mountainside overlooking the Virunga volcanoes. On arrival, I joined fellow travelers at the large communal table where the kitchen staff presented a hearty breakfast of oatmeal, eggs, bread, fruit, juice and hot tea. A nearby family readily adopted me into their vibrant breakfast conversation about world travel, medical research and upcoming adventures.
Exploring the Musanze District
Following breakfast, I met up with Mugabe Gilles for a ride to Volcanoes National Park. As we headed toward Ruhengeri, we passed several large farms conducting ongoing agricultural research. With Rwandan pride, Gilles gushed about the rapid infrastructure development under President Paul Kagame’s leadership after genocide ripped the country apart in 1994.
Though you’ll now find both paved and loose gravel roads throughout the region, many Rwandans still travel on foot for food, water and household materials. Without public transportation, many children walk a great distance each day to attend classes. In this rapidly developing country, Rwandans do not take access to education for granted.
We later drove by the ceremonial site of Kwita Izina where thousands of people travel each year to observe the naming of baby gorillas. After a 40 minute ride, we pulled in to the gravel parking area of Volcanoes National Park Headquarters in Kinigi.
Briefing at Volcanoes National Park
Safari guides and international travelers from around the world gathered in the large, wood rotunda for fresh brewed local tea and Maraba coffee ahead of a pre-trek briefing. Within the boundaries of the park, you’ll find 10 gorilla families: Titus, Susa, Karisimbi, Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Agashya, Kwitonda, Umubano, Ugenda, Bwenge and Hirwa.
To minimize disruption to day-to-day life, gorilla trekking remains limited to one small group of trekkers for one hour daily per family on a permit only basis. Because only 8 trekkers are allowed in each group, only 80 gorilla trekking permits are available each day. Today, I would be visiting the Hirwa family.
Shouts rang through the rotunda: “Hirwa! Hirwa!” I enthusiastically replied, “That’s me!” as I jogged over to the beckoning safari guide now standing in the open yard for a briefing. Seven eager trekkers emerged from the rotunda to join the huddle where our guide introduced the members of the Hirwa family.
Formed in 2006 by members of Sabyinyo and Agashya, the Hirwa family is comprised of 16 family members. This family is led by a very large silverback, Munyinya, and is one of two families on the mountain with young twins. Our guide explained that Hirwa means ‘the lucky one’ as he transitioned to a discussion on safari guidelines.
All trekkers must agree to a set of guidelines to ensure no harm comes to the endangered mountain gorillas. First and foremost, trekkers are asked to maintain a distance of 22 feet when possible to prevent disease transmission. Because gorillas and humans share 98% of the same genetic code, common contagious human diseases such as the flu are readily transmissible across species. When in the presence of the gorillas, sudden movements and loud speech may frighten them. Trekkers must keep their voices low and avoid rapid movements to minimize disruption and prevent injury. Any trekkers approached by a gorilla must maintain composure, stand still, look away and listen for carefully for directions from the guide.
Bouldering to the Drop Point
Right on cue, Gilles rolled up in his outfitted Land Rover. When I hopped in, his face lit with enthusiasm. We were in for an exciting drive through rugged backcountry. Roads quickly transitioned from pavement to loose gravel to boulders and dirt. As we bounced from boulder to boulder, happy children bounded over from nearby homesteads waving their arms while yelling “Hello, hello!” in ebullient greeting.
Before long, our convoy slowed to a crawl. My eyes widened as I surveyed the bridge sitting before us. Less than 15 feet long, this bridge consisted of exactly 10 logs thrown across a deep, narrow ravine. I nervously wondered whether this small, crude bridge would hold our Land Rover. Biting my lip, I observed a motorcycle crossing the bridge just ahead of us.
As we approached the bridge, Gilles unrolled his window for maximum visibility. He took a deep breath, leaned forward and rolled onto the bridge. My hands clenched as logs shifted under the weight of our vehicle. As I looked down from my window, I found myself staring right into the creek. Our successful crossing stands as a testament to his adept driving.
Children and porters along with two armed wildlife guards welcomed us upon arrival at the drop point. As I stepped down from the vehicle, a porter handed over a hand carved, wooden hiking staff. Two porters offered to carry my daypack for a small fee. My ultralight pack posed no major challenge for gorilla trekking, so I declined the offer. I waved to Gilles as our safari guide called us in for a quick huddle to confirm our commitment to the trek. Then, we were on our way.
Ascending Mount Sabyinyo
We wandered past several farmettes with simple living quarters and livestock before ascending into rolling farmland. After 45 minutes of trekking through potato fields, we arrived at a steep lava rock wall. Built to protect the gorillas, this wall surrounds the entire boundary of Volcanoes National Park. Our guide reiterated the guidelines as guards and porters climbed the wall. Now, it was our turn. As I scrambled up the rock wall, a porter kindly extended his hand to pull me up to the top. Climbing down, another porter stood fast extending an arm to each trekker for balance.
Soft yet solid ground under foot, I found myself standing in a picturesque, natural courtyard surrounded by dense jungle flora. Before continuing, we put our gloves on to prevent injury from stinging nettles. As I donned my gloves, I realized I was surrounded by Arundinaria alpina. This species of bamboo provided a solid indication of altitude as A. alpina thrives between 8,200 and 10,500 feet above sea level. We placed our trust into the hands of our safari guide as we crossed the threshold of the dimly lit rainforest.
With mud and rock under our feet, we ascended the mountain. Our narrow, twisty path led us through a crowd of bamboo and fern.
Roughly 35 minutes into the mountain, our guide called us together. Reaching out into the thatch, he snatched piece of bamboo for demonstration. Mountain gorillas feed primarily on bamboo and other plant species within the region. They love bamboo, happily devouring both leaves and shoots. With a chuckle, our guide explained that gorillas may get “drunk” if they eat too much bamboo. (Note: I remain unable to substantiate this rather amusing claim with research findings.)
Beep, beep. We listened with intent as our guide grabbed his radio. Straining our ears, we could only hear snippets of conversation as he quietly spoke into the mic. Putting his radio away, he announced that our gorilla trackers located the Hirwa family. Machete in hand, we bushwhacked our way through the jungle to meet the trackers. Many employed trackers, porters and gamekeepers are reformed poachers who are now paid to protect the gorillas. “The key,” our guide said, “is to ensure they make more money helping the gorillas than they ever made poaching them.”
Stepping into a clearing, we faced four lean yet muscular men in fatigues with AK-47s casually slung over shoulder. Trackers. Our guide introduced us to our trackers and firmly stated that we must abandon all of our belongings right there on the spot. Our trust waning, we reluctantly set down our packs. He explained that only our cameras would be allowed on location to ensure the safety of the gorillas. My passport and permit were safety stashed in my white mesh jacket, so I grabbed my camera before zipping up my daypack. Moments later, we continued bushwhacking.
Behold the Hirwa!
Before long, we heard a grunt and movement. Swept with silent tension, we didn’t move a muscle. Seconds felt like minutes. A female hiker suddenly gasped, “Ohhhh my goddddddddd!” Looking in her direction, we immediately understood.
On the other side of the brush, just 10 feet away, sat a large female mountain gorilla facing away from her. Electrified, our team buzzed with excitement. Here she sat before us in her own habitat: a real, live mountain gorilla! I wondered, “Was she too close?” Our gorilla trekking guide let out a deep, audible grunt to let her know we were here. She glanced over her shoulder in acknowledgement as we resumed bushwhacking to get a better view.
Mom groomed her twins. Baby Twitabwero climbed around his daddy, Munyinya, while playing peek-a-boo with the team of trekkers. These gentle creatures appeared to be completely unaffected by our presence during their restful family time. They slept, cuddled, played, farted and picked their noses as family time soon transitioned to lunch time.
We stepped around the brush. This time, we all gasped. We were not simply watching the Hirwa family. We were with them!
Standing Before Munyinya
With a deep grunt, the family offered a rather polite request for passage. Our guide stated, “Stop. Stay where you are.” We do. A fellow trekker and I pressed against the bamboo perimeter. My heart raced as an imposing mountain gorilla shifted his track and ambled toward the two of us.
On the volcanic slope of Mt. Sabyinyo, I stood face-to-face with a 500 pound silverback. Munyinya. Gazing through me with his dark brown eyes, I could feel him gently peering into my soul. He stood less than 4 feet away. In that moment, my life was in his hands. Fortunately, his disarming facial expression suggested amicable curiosity.
From across the clearing, our guide said, “Gareth and Stephanie, take one small step backwards.” We do. As we shifted, Munyinya lost interest and continued moving toward several Hagenia plants. Gareth and I quickly locked eyes as we took in a very deep breath. When we stepped away from the bamboo, a female gorilla joined the family from nearby brush.
Within moments, surrounding foliage came to life with sound and movement. Looking to the left, a gorilla swung from the tree to tree. Above, two gorillas climbed across limbs snacking on nearby leaves. To the right, another gorilla scrambled to the canopy. Both the twins and Baby Twitabwero scurried about. Like a King, Munyinya sat proudly ahead as he snacked on nearby shoots.
And just like that, our hour was up. Thankful for the opportunity to spend family time with the Hirwa, we headed back to collect our belongings. While walking, we bonded as we shared our individual perspectives on the visit. When we arrived at the tracker location, all of the bags were piled over by a tree and many of them were open. We ran to our daypacks and quickly inspected them to confirm contents. Once we were satisfied with the state of our possessions, we began our descent down Mt. Sabyinyo.
Our ride to Kinigi was every bit as adventurous as the ride in. At one point, our Land Rover rode along a 35 degree angle as we negotiated the erratic terrain. Back at my banda, I changed my clothes and threw on a comfortable pair of shoes before walking up to the dining room. On entry, I re-joined my ad hoc “family” at the communal dining table for a delicious 3 course meal. As we recounted our gorilla trekking experiences, they shared their own story of ascending through thick stinging nettles on Mt. Karisimbi to visit the Susa family. This was the same gorilla family that Dian Fossey studied through her research on the mountain.
Celebrating the Moment
As we wrapped up our conversation, I heard an unexpected sound that brought tears to my eyes. Much to my surprise, the entire dining room full of staff and travelers abruptly burst into a joyful rendition of Happy Birthday as the server placed a cake and a bottle of white wine before me in celebration. With cameras flashing all around, I soon learned that everyone was in on this birthday surprise. With a hearty laugh, travelers one-by-one confessed moments where they almost spoiled the surprise! After cake and a few laughs, we ended our evening with a final toast to adventure.
Learn More About Gorilla Trekking
To take on this adventure yourself, visit Volcanoes Safaris at www.volcanoessafaris.com.
If you want to read Gareth’s account of our adventure on Mt. Sabyinyo, please visit aussieoverlanders.com.au/gorillas-in-rwanda/. In this blog post, you will find me generically referenced as “American girl”.
